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This statue of General William O. Darby depicts the Fort Smith native on a Harley-Davidson MLA motorcycle which was designed for military use. Darby was the first commander of the U.S. Army Rangers. After graduating high school in 1929, Darby went on to attend the Unites States Military Academy at West Point where he graduated in 1933. Darby was first assigned to Fort Bliss, Texas, but following Pearl Harbor, he was tasked to train the U.S. Army Rangers. This group was initiated on July 9, 1942 and fought in North Africa and in Europe. Darby was killed in action in Italy on April 30, 1945, just days before the end of World War II. While preparing aircraft for a mission, a German shell exploded nearby and Darby was hit by shrapnel. Darby was buried in Cisterna, Italy, but was later re-interned at the Fort Smith National Cemetery in 1949.

Photo of the bronze statue commemorating General Darby

Darby on his classic motorcycle in North Africa

Lt. Col Darby with a fellow officer in Salerno, Italy

Dedicated in 2016, this statue honors Fort Smith local General William O. Darby, the first commander of the U.S. Army Rangers. The unit became known as Darby’s Rangers, and several area schools and a military installation are named in honor of the unit's leader. Darby was even the subject of a popular 1958 Hollywood production, Darby's Rangers. Darby led the first Americans who engaged the German army in combat in North Africa as part of Operation Torch. This statue was dedicated 71 years to the day when Darby was killed by a German artillery shell in Italy. 

General William O. Darby Statue

This historic tour will take you to well known and historic sites in two neighboring cities along the Arkansas River. Be sure to select driving directions so your map will guide you along highways that are not open to pedestrians.

Historic Tour of Downtown Van Buren, Arkansas and Downtown Fort Smith, Arkansas

This short walking tour includes several historic buildings and museums in downtown Fort Smith along the Arkansas River. The walking tour concludes at the Fort Smith National Cemetery.

Walking Tour of Fort Smith Arkansas 

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Crawford County, Arkansas was established in 1820 and included portions of eight counties as well as a section of Indian Territory. The Crawford County Courthouse was originally built in 1840-41. The original building burned in 1876. Due to portions of the building not being damaged, they were able to rebuild and enlarge the building in 1890. The clock tower on the structure is part of the original building.On the grounds of the courthouse stands another historic structure, the Albert Pike Schoolhouse. The schoolhouse was originally built in 1820. It was kept at its original location for a little over one hundred years until 1936 when it was moved to the University of Arkansas. In 1974 it was brought back to Crawford County and has been located next to the courthouse ever since.These two structures are located at the Southwest end of Historic Main Street. Many other historic building have stood on Main Street. These buildings, those that are still standing, are now homes to local stores, restaurants, and a stage theater. This road has also been used in films, most notable was The Blue and the Gray.

Portions of this historic courthouse date back to 1840 when the original building was constructed. While much of that structure was destroyed in an 1876 fire, some of the original building survived and were part of an 1890 expansion of the historic courthouse. This building is listed on the National Register of Historic Places as well as being the oldest active courthouse west of the Mississippi River.  On the grounds of the courthouse stands another historic building, the Albert Pike Schoolhouse. This schoolhouse was built in 1820 and the future Confederate General Albert Pike taught students here before he moved to Little Rock. 

Crawford County Courthouse and Albert Pike Schoolhouse

The Drennen-Scott House was the home to Van Buren co-founder John Drennen, an Indian agent responsible for paying Cherokee Indians settlements for relocating. The home was owned by the family until 2005 when it was donated to the University of Arkansas-Fort Smith.The land for the home was purchased in 1836, selected due to its location providing ease of visibility to the Arkansas River below. This area, called Phillips Landing, allowed Drennen and his brother-in-law David Thompson to see the arrival of their steamboats without having to worry about constant flooding. The home began as a one-room structure that grew as the family grew. Drennen’s daughter, Caroline, married Charles Scott, who would continue the family legacy. This is why the home is known as the Drennen-Scott House.The house is now used by the University of Arkansas-Fort Smith Historical Interpretation Program, which welcomes visitors to explore the ground outside the house and the interior, which contains some of the original structure and furniture.

The Drennen-Scott House was the residence of Van Buren co-founder John Drennen and his descendants. This house is owned by the University of Arkansas-Fort Smith and used by the Historical Interpretation Program as a way to provide students with real-life experience in public history. As such, the house is open to the public and offers a visitor center.

Drennen-Scott House

The Fairview Cemetery is the oldest cemetery in Van Buren and it was built in the year 1816. This still active cemetery has been around since the early years of Van Buren’s existence dating back to when early settlers came into the town. As the city expanded, a man named John Drennen donated 10 acres to create the first public cemetery for the town. There are a few significant portions of the cemetery. The first is the section where Civil War Confederate soldiers are buried. There are reportedly 442 known Confederate soldiers that are buried here in the Cemetery with only 8 Union soldiers buried here as well.The cemetery is also the final resting place for many significant individuals and families of early Van Buren history as well as criminals who were executed and not claimed by their families.There is one piece of Van Buren history that is located in Fairview Cemetery that has always interested people, the “Mystery Grave.” Not much is known about the gravesite that is made of four large flat rocks that create a rectangle shape with a curved rock as the headstone. This grave is believed to belong to one of two people with those people being one of Hernando de Soto’s soldiers or a Viking. It started out as a private burial ground before becoming an actual cemetery.The Confederate section of the Fairview Cemetery made it on the National Register of Historic Places in 1996. The whole cemetery itself would follow suit years later in 2005. It made it on the Register for its relevance to the history of Van Buren. The Confederate section made it on, because of the association to the Civil War and other local organizations. It is a very important historical place filled with much historical knowledge for the town’s early days.

Built in 1816, The Fairview Cemetery is the oldest cemetery in Van Buren, Arkansas. This cemetery is home to the graves of early settlers to the region and, most significantly, Confederate soldiers that fought during the American Civil War. The Confederate troops even have their own section inside the cemetery. The burial of individuals at this cemetery began around 1846 after the land donation by John Drennen. There are around 460 soldiers who are buried at this cemetery.

Fairview Cemetery

The United States Marshals Museum was scheduled for a September 2019 opening but as of December 2019 the building is almost complete and work continues on the interior. When complete, the museum will be dived into five sections that cover the history of the U.S. Marshals as well as a Hall of Honor that was dedicated on September 24, 2019, the 230th anniversary of the creation of the U.S. Marshals Service. The exterior of the building is designed based on the star badge worn by Marshals.

The United States Marshals Museum was located in Laramie, Washington until 2002. In 2007, the federal government selected Fort Smith as the new location of the museum and as of December 2019,  the museum is still being constructed. This museum will feature exhibits that share the history of the United States Marshals with artifacts and interpretive panels with the goal of expanding knowledge about the history of federal law enforcement.  

United States Marshals Museum

The Belle Grove Historic District consist of 22-square blocks of homes from the late 1800s along with brick-lined streets and contributing properties that date back to as early as the antebellum period. Many of these homes belonged to political leaders, merchants, attorneys, bankers, and physicians of early Fort Smith. This historic district was added to the National Register of Historic Places on July 16, 1973.One of the most notable homes in the district, Clayton House, belonged to William Henry Harrison Clayton. Clayton was the chief prosecutor for Judge Isaac C. Parker and purchased this antebellum home and transformed into an Italianate-style mansion. The home fell into disrepair in the 20th century and would have likely been demolished had it not been for the efforts of local resident Julia Yadon. Today Clayton House is home to a local history museum that offers a variety of exhibits as well as a guided tour thanks to the Fort Smith Heritage Foundation.

The anchor of the Belle Grove Historic District, Clayton House belonged to William Henry Harrison Clayton and now serves as a small museum operated by the Fort Smith Heritage Foundation. The museum interprets the history of Fort Smith at the turn-of-the-century through exhibits as well as guided tours, special events, and themed fundraisers that are held throughout the year such as the "Gaslight Gala." The Belle Grove Historic District is a 22-square block area on the northwestern side of Fort Smith, Arkansas that included numerous homes that date back to the late 18th century.

Clayton House and Belle Grove Historic District

The statue of African American Bass Reeves stands tall looking towards Oklahoma, which used to be Indian Territory. This is often were U.S. Marshals, including Bass Reeves, would travel to from Fort Smith in search of criminals.            Bass Reeves was born as a slave in 1838 in Crawford County, Arkansas.<a href="#_ftn1" target="_blank">[1]</a> Reeves master, William Reeves, moved the family and slaves to Texas in 1846.<a href="#_ftn2" target="_blank">[2]</a> Bass Reeves soon became George Reeves servant. This lead to George taking Bass with him when the Civil War started.<a href="#_ftn3" target="_blank">[3]</a> Somehow during the war, Bass escaped from George and fled to Indian Territory as a free slave.<a href="#_ftn4" target="_blank">[4]</a> After the war was over, he returned to Van Buren, Arkansas.           Following Judge Isaac C. Parker’s appointment as judge of the Federal Western District Court in May of 1875, Bass Reeves was recruited as a U.S. Deputy Marshal by U.S. Marshal James F. Fagan.<a href="#_ftn5" target="_blank">[5]</a> Despite being illiterate, Reeves brought in more outlaws form eastern Indian Territory and western Arkansas than anyone else.<a href="#_ftn6" target="_blank">[6]</a> <a href="#_ftnref1" target="_blank">[1]</a> “Bass Reeves – Black Hero Marshal, Legends of America, <a href="https://www.legendsofamerica.com/we-bassreeves/" target="_blank">https://www.legendsofamerica.com/we-bassreeves/</a> (accessed December 13, 2019).<a href="#_ftnref2" target="_blank">[2]</a> Ibid.<a href="#_ftnref3" target="_blank">[3]</a> Ibid.<a href="#_ftnref4" target="_blank">[4]</a> Ibid.<a href="#_ftnref5" target="_blank">[5]</a> Ibid.<a href="#_ftnref6" target="_blank">[6]</a> “Bass Reeves Monument,” Fort Smit, Arkansas, <a href="https://www.fortsmith.org/bass-reeves-monument/" target="_blank">https://www.fortsmith.org/bass-reeves-monument/</a> (accessed December 13, 2019).

This statue is of a local African American named Bass Reeves. He was the first African America west of the Mississippi River to become a U.S. Marshal.  He served under the jurisdiction of Judge Isaac C. Parker.  This 25-foot statue depicts Reeves on horseback, with a rifle in his hand, and a dog at his side, as they head into what used to be Indian Territory. 

Bass Reeves Statue

The Fort Smith National Historic Site shares 80 years of Fort Smith history with visitors from across the country and around the world. When guest enter the visitor center, they are greeted by National Park Rangers who give them an overview of what they can see inside the building and outside. 	Inside the main building, visitors typically begin by watching a short film that provides the 80 year history in about 15 minutes. After the film, visitors can make their way down the hall to see the first jail, nicknamed the “Hell on the Boarder” jail. Visitors can then continue upstairs where they can see a recreation of the second jail that was built. In this area, there are also exhibits on Deputy Marshals. Continuing on through the latter portion of the museum, visitors can see exhibits on military and the Trail of Tears before entering Judge Parker’s courtroom. This exhibit is what most people come to see. When visitors finish inside they can explore the grounds where they can see a recreation of the gallows, the Commissary which is the oldest building in Fort Smith, and they can travel out to see the foundations of the First Fort Smith.	For those wanting to come to the museum they are open from 9 am to 5 pm every day except New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving Day, and Christmas Day.<a href="#_ftn1" target="_blank">[1]</a> To go through the museum it will cost $10 for those sixteen and older and those under sixteen are free.<a href="#_ftn2" target="_blank">[2]</a> This price will cover seven consecutive days of reentry.<a href="#_ftn3" target="_blank">[3]</a> The museum also accepts any America the Beautiful National Park Passes.<a href="#_ftn4" target="_blank">[4]</a> This is a great museum for all ages. <a href="#_ftnref1" target="_blank">[1]</a> “Operating Hours &amp; Seasons,” National Park Service, <a href="https://www.nps.gov/fosm/planyourvisit/hours.htm" target="_blank">https://www.nps.gov/fosm/planyourvisit/hours.htm</a> (accessed December 13, 2019).<a href="#_ftnref2" target="_blank">[2]</a> “Fees &amp; Passes,” National Park Service, <a href="https://www.nps.gov/fosm/planyourvisit/fees.htm" target="_blank">https://www.nps.gov/fosm/planyourvisit/fees.htm</a> (accessed December 13, 2019).<a href="#_ftnref3" target="_blank">[3]</a> Ibid.<a href="#_ftnref4" target="_blank">[4]</a> Ibid.

The Fort Smith National Historic Site covers around 80 years of Fort Smith, Arkansas history from 1817 to 1896.  This site primarily focuses on the years in which Judge Isaac C. Parker served the Federal Court of the Western District of Arkansas, 1875-1896.  This site includes an indoor museum, several outdoor exhibits, and a walking trail that leads visitors to the foundations of the First Fort Smith. This National Park Site is a great place to take friends and family to learn more about the history of the town.

Fort Smith National Historic Site

These two museums provide visitors with great experiences at viewing the history of Fort Smith in unique ways. The Museum of History has a few hands-on exhibits that allow guests to experience history. The Trolley Museum provides trolley rides, in which they will sometimes allow young kids to help drive.The Fort Smith Museum of History is located in the 1906 Atkinson-Williams Warehouse and includes exhibits such as an old fashioned soda fountain, where visitors can purchase ice cream sodas, floats, sundaes , and other items within a recreated pharmacy from the early 20th century. The Fort Smith Trolley Museum interprets the history of public transportation in the region which dates back to 1883 when the Fort Smith Railway Company started operations.

The Fort Smith Museum of History was established in 1910 and offers exhibits that interpret the history of Native Americans, early settlers of European descent, and the growth of the community in the 19th and 20th century. Highlights of the museum include the courtroom, collections of military memorabilia, exhibits related to agriculture and business, and a collection of radios and other items related to the history of technology. The historic trolley, which is part of the Fort Smith Trolley Museum, stops right outside the museum to provide rides for visitors between the two museums. 

Fort Smith Museum of History and Historic Tolley

The Fort Smith National Cemetery dates back to the first burials at this location in 1819, just a few years after Fort Smith was founded. It is believed that Fort Smith surgeon Thomas Russell was the first person interned here. Numerous Confederate soldiers and two generals were buried here during the Civil War years, including 475 unknown soldiers. President Grant ordered in 1871 that cemetery be revitalized by the War Department and remain operational for future military burials. A majority of the cemetery uses the headstones provided by the government, but there are also many civilians buried here including Joel Stubblefield, an educator and administrator who helped build the local college into a four-year institution. The infamous Judge Parker, known as "the hanging judge" is also buried here. The cemetery was placed on the National Register of Historic Places on May 29, 1999.

Fort Smith National Cemetery is located at the site of a local cemetery that was originally created in the early 1800s. Over 13,000 soldiers and some notable civilians have been buried at Fort Smith National Cemetery. There are multiple Civil War generals and over 1000 unidentified soldiers buried in the cemetery which continues to accept new internments. \

Historic Tour of Downtown Van Buren, Arkansas and Downtown Fort Smith, Arkansas

General William O. Darby Statue

Introduction

Images

Backstory and Context

Sources