Classroom

Leavenworth's evolution from a Wenatchi Indian salmon fishery site to a bustling town saw significant changes in its landscape and economy, especially in the Chumstick Valley region. The arrival of settlers in the 1800s marked the beginning of extensive homesteading ventures in areas like Mission (now Cashmere) and Icicle Flats, where the Wenatchee and Icicle Rivers converge.As of today, the community of Chumstick is surrounded by the Wenatchee National Forest and the Cascade Mountains. It is located along State Route 209, south of the town of Plain and north of Leavenworth. The Chumstick Road connects the community to other areas, and is the only direct way, unless taking forestry roads that can be unreliable in winter. The town is within the Beaver Valley.

This section of the route has a series of three tunnels. The route takes us through a mountain ridge away from the Wenatchee River Valley and via the Chumstick Valley along tracks known as the Chumstick Cutoff. Along the way we will cross over the Wenatchee River. The Chumstick Cutoff was built by the Great Northern Railway in 1928 to avoid the Wenatchee River, where it flows through the narrow and hazardous Tumwater Canyon. The former route through Tumwater Canyon is now followed by US Highway 2 west of Leavenworth.Along this section of our route, look for large ponderosa pine trees.

Chumstick

Instructor

The AMTRAK Empire Builder Train originates at the King Street Station in Seattle and terminates in Chicago. This tour covers the first leg of this journey from Seattle to Wenatchee, Washington.

Welcome to the AMTRAK Empire Builder train 8 departing from Seattle for Wenatchee and points east. This audio narration of the Empire Builder’s route from Seattle to Wenatchee is sponsored by GeoTours4U and presents information describing points of interest along the route. This information comes from a variety of sources including the public domain version of the route guide researched by volunteers of the Trails and Rails program of the National Park Service. The narrations were formatted as a class project by students studying in the Geography Department of the University of Washington.

Welcome departing Seattle

As the Northern Pacific Railroad's transcontinental line approached completion in the 1880s, it was already becoming evident that the earlier decision to end the line at Tacoma rather than Seattle had been a mistake. This was one Seattle had already realized and attempted to rectify by opening their own branch lines. By the 1890s, much of Northern Pacific's business had shifted to Seattle. Railroad Avenue (present-day Alaskan Way) opened along the Elliott Bay shore in 1887. But it was short-lived due to suffering through Seattle's 18 89 Great Fire. Canadian immigrant James J. Hill, owner of the Great Northern Railway, became the first builder of a transcontinental line without government aid when he extended his line to Seattle in 1893. In the same year the nationwide financial panic struck and bankrupted Northern Pacific. The two companies shared a wood-framed terminal called Union Depot along Railroad Avenue until Hill bought control of the Northern Pacific three years later. Plans for a new station were formed and the complex on filled tide flats away from the waterfront were announced in 1902. The St. Paul, Minnesota architectural firm Reed &amp; Stem was commissioned the following year. The L-shaped train station was opened in May of 1906 with the four-faced clock tower being the tallest structure in Seattle at the time. With ornamental plaster ceilings, chandeliers, white marble columns, and terrazzo floors, including a compass pattern mosaic at the entrance, the King Street Station was built to be glamorous. Like many other rail stations, the King Street Station declined as air travel increased over the course of the 20th century. The clock and building were not maintained and attempts to modernize the station only detracted from the original elegance as the floors and ceiling were covered over with acoustical tiles, windows boarded over, the waiting room partitioned, the marble and mosaic walls covered with plastic laminate, and the lighting replaced with fluorescent bulbs. By the 1990s, the building was owned by the Burlington Northern &amp; Santa Fe Railroad (BNSF), with leases to Amtrak and the Sound Transit commuter rail service. The process of renovation began, after the City of Seattle purchased the station from BNSF in 2008 and a full-scale restoration project began. What had been covered up in the 1960s, the floors, decorative plasterwork, and windows, were uncovered and restored. The clock tower was repaired and new train platforms were added. The station made it on the National Register of Historic Places in 1973. The restored main waiting room was re-opened in April 2013.

Let's begin our tour narration here at King Street Station. Built in 1906, King Street Station once served as a train station for the Great Northern Railway and Northern Pacific Railway. The Reed and Stem firm's design of the brick, stone, and terra cotta building with a four-sided clock tower was inspired by the campanile of Venice, Italy in the Piazza de San Marco. The station is now apart of the Amtrak rail and Sound Transit commuter intermodal system with commercial spaces for lease. It was added to the U.S. National Register of Historic Places in 1973.

King Street Station

In the 19th century, Seattle's waterfront underwent significant development driven by Henry Yesler's steam-powered sawmill, established in October 1852 at what is now Yesler Way. Yesler's mill and wharf became vital for the city's growth, serving as a transportation hub. The arrival of the Seattle, Lake Shore and Eastern Railway in 1887, followed by James J. Hill's Great Northern Railway, further transformed the waterfront. However, the Great Seattle Fire of 1889 devastated much of the waterfront, leaving only one dock intact. Despite setbacks, redevelopment quickly ensued, with new docks and warehouses emerging along the shore. Legal disputes over tidelands ownership clouded development efforts before Washington achieved statehood in 1889, but the state constitution eventually clarified ownership, facilitating controlled development and land reclamation. In 1897, an important aspect of the waterfront's layout emerged with the introduction of "finger" piers arranged in a northeast-southwest direction, optimizing freight movement and preventing collisions. In the first half of the 20th century, Seattle's Central waterfront thrived as a bustling port, attracting various interests from big business to radical labor unions and reformers. Despite Progressive efforts, much of the waterfront remained in private hands, though the establishment of the Port of Seattle in 1911 marked a significant milestone in municipal governance. During World War I, Seattle's port flourished, particularly in trade with Japan, and saw the rise of innovative local industries like soybean-based glue production. Major shipping lines and companies, including international entities, operated along the Central Waterfront, bolstering Seattle's economic vitality. Despite the challenges of the Great Depression, development continued, with new structures like the American Can Company building and extensions to the seawall. World War II brought technological advancements to cargo handling but also underscored the need for modernization of waterfront infrastructure. In the post-war years, proposals for modernization clashed with preservation efforts as container ports elsewhere led to a decline in maritime activity on the Central Waterfront, prompting a shift towards tourism. Plans for redevelopment emerged, gradually transforming the area with new businesses and attractions.

The Seattle waterfront was originally constructed as a container port in the 1960s. However, it has transformed into an urbanized hub spanning from the Pioneer Square to roughly northwest past downtown Seattle. Since its development, it has become more oriented towards recreational activities and retail uses. Popular areas featured at the Seattle Waterfront includes the Ferris Wheel, Aquarium, and overwater hotel.

Seattle Waterfront

In 1959, artist Edward E. Carlson sketched the Space Needle on a napkin, inspired by Germany's Stuttgart Tower. Designed for the futuristic 1962 World's Fair in Seattle, it symbolized the 21st century. Architect John Graham turned Carlson's balloon concept into a flying saucer, completed just before the fair. Private financing, secured in 1961, allowed construction by Howard S. Wright Construction. Completed in December 1961, the 605-foot tower opened for the fair on April 21, 1962. From the top, visitors can see downtown Seattle, Mount Rainier, Puget Sound, the Olympic Mountains and ferry traffic to and from various islands.

On the city side in the distance is the Space Needle, Seattle's 605-foot-tall landmark which debuted at the 1962 World's Fair, drawing 2.3 million visitors. Its construction was supported by a 1957 bond and federal funds. Resilient to winds and earthquakes, it features 25 lightning rods. Every New Year's Eve, it hosts a synchronized fireworks show at midnight.

Space Needle - EB

The Salmon Bay Bridge welcomes you to the Lake Washington Ship Canal. The Lake Washington Ship Canal connects Lake Washington with Puget Sound, bridging fresh and saltwater and adjusts for the 20-foot water level difference. The canal flows east-west, linking Union Bay, Montlake Cut, Portage Bay, Lake Union, Fremont Cut, Salmon Bay, and Shilshole Bay. Its history dates back to 18 54 when Thomas Mercer proposed the idea. Actual construction started in 1911 and was completed in 1934. Before the canal, Lake Washington drained into the Duwamish River via the Black River. Originally envisioned for log transportation, the project gained momentum with Navy interest in the late 1800s. Despite delays, it spurred infrastructure development in Seattle, ultimately reshaping regional waterways. The Ballard Locks are located in the west of the Lake Washington Ship Canal. The Ballard Locks in Seattle hold the distinction of being the busiest locks in the United States, facilitating more boat traffic than any other. Beyond their practical function, they, along with the adjacent fish ladder and the enchanting Carl S. English Jr. Botanical Gardens, draw over one million visitors each year, solidifying their status as one of Seattle's premier tourist destinations. Their construction had a profound impact on Seattle's landscape, significantly altering the topography of the area. By lowering the water levels of Lake Washington and Lake Union by 8.8 feet (2.7 meters), the locks created miles of new waterfront land. They also reversed the flow of rivers and left piers in the eastern half of Salmon Bay elevated and dry. Recognized for their historical significance, the Ballard Locks are listed on the National Register of Historic Places and have been honored by the American Society of Civil Engineers as a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark. Their legacy not only encompasses their practical contributions but also their role in shaping the city's identity and attracting visitors from far and wide.

The bridge was built in 1914 by the Great Northern Railway and has an opening span of 200 feet. The Ship Canal connects the salt water inland sea of Puget Sound with the freshwater of Lake Washington, which is 20 feet higher than Puget Sound. Boats are lowered and raised between the two different levels via the Hiram M. Chittenden Locks, also known as the Ballard Locks. The locks can be seen on the side of the train opposite Puget Sound about a quarter of a mile away. Most of the boats passing through the canal to Lake Washington are recreational traffic with occasional barges transporting various commercial products.

Salmon Bay Bridge, Ship Canal and Ballard Locks

The large body of water adjacent to Seattle is the Puget Sound. The Sound is salt water because it’s connected to the Pacific Ocean about 100 miles northwest of here. Puget Sound experiences tides just like you were directly on the ocean. The Sound is one of the world’s largest and most ecologically diverse inland seas. It's best known for its rich marine life, which includes several pods of killer whales, also known as orcas. In addition to the Orcas, the sound has visiting gray whales and salmon that migrate from the Pacific Ocean to spawn in the freshwater streams in this region. Some other species that are found in the sound include Dungeness crab, shrimp, and the world’s largest octopus. You may see a variety of birds along the shore, including blue herons, seagulls, geese, ducks, and occasionally a bald eagle. Across Puget Sound are the Olympic Mountains and Olympic National Park, which includes large stands of old-growth forest and moss-covered rain forests that receive more than 12 feet of rain a year.

Puget Sound

The creation of the Puget Sound is indeed complex. The Puget Lowland, where Puget Sound is located, is the result of the tectonic processes related to the subduction of the Juan de Fuca Plate. Thousands of years ago, ice sheets advanced across the Puget Sound area, depositing large volumes of glacial sediment. The result of the movement of the melting icepack is believed to be what created the Puget Sound we see today. Water erosion aided the creation of the shape of the landscape and created rivers that flow from the Cascade and Olympic mountain ranges into the Sound to this day. Hundreds of small watersheds were thus established throughout the area, creating the lush environment that is common within the Pacific Northwest. The Sound is now home to hundreds of species of marine life and is used by commercial and recreational vessels for a multitude of purposes.

Puget Sound is unusually deep, with an average depth of over 450 feet. Its deepest point is just north of Seattle at over 900 feet. Puget Sound’s geography and large water volume produce an average range of more than 12 feet between high and low tides. The water of Puget Sound is unusually cold, not getting any warmer than 53 degrees in summer, with a low of about 45 in winter.”

Puget Sound 2

Edmonds stands as an arts hub within Snohomish County, boasting a plethora of galleries and arts facilities. The city government's commitment to fostering the arts is evident through initiatives like the establishment of the Edmonds Art Commission in 1975 and the development of a robust public arts program over subsequent decades.The annual Edmonds Arts Festival, held since 1957, draws 75,000 visitors over Father's Day weekend in June, making it one of the largest in the Pacific Northwest. Downtown Edmonds also hosts the Cascadia Art Museum, opened in 2015, focusing on regional Northwest art, and a historic single-screen movie theater built in the 1920s.Edmonds further enriches its cultural landscape with events like the weekly farmers' market, annual summer festivals including the Waterfront Festival, Art Festival, Edmonds in Bloom garden festival, and Taste of Edmonds food festival. It houses parks and recreational spaces, totaling 189 acres of open and preserved land, with an additional 560 acres shared with the school district and county government. Downtown Edmonds features several major parks, including Brackett's Landing Public Beach, City Park overlooking Edmonds Marsh, and the upcoming Civic Field. Notably, a poignant 9/11 memorial, featuring a steel beam from the World Trade Center, stands at a fire station near downtown, dedicated in 2015.

Edmond is a city in Snohomish County. It is part of Seattle's metropolitan area, and is located about 15 miles north of Seattle. It was established as a city in the 1890s right before the Great Northern Railway period. This city consists of about 40,000 residents and is known for its beaches, excellent restaurants, galleries, and small shops. It is connected by two state highways and the state ferry system. Most of its public service in Edmonds is centered around the downtown train station served by the Amtrak and Sounder commuter trains - and several other community transit bus routes to outlying neighborhoods.

Edmonds

Whidbey Island was once home to various Native American tribes before being explored by Europeans. This included members of the Lower Skagit, Swinomish, Suquamish, and Snohomish tribes. In 1792, Captain George Vancouver named the island after his colleague Joseph Whidbey. The first non-Native American to stay overnight was a Catholic missionary in 1840. Lieutenant Charles Wilkes visited Penn Cove in 1841, noting a sizeable Native settlement and a Catholic mission. Holmes Harbor was named after a crewmember, Silas Holmes. Colonel Isaac N. Ebey became the first white settler in 1850, but tragically, he was killed by members of the Haida tribe in 1857. Fort Ebey, established in 1942, and Admiralty Head Lighthouse now stand as reminders of the island's history. The area around Coupeville is now a National Historical Reserve honoring Isaac Ebey, and the lighthouse is a common visitor attraction. Because of its unique position in Puget Sound, being a vantage point for spotting any incoming enemy ships, the island has a large military feel as you can explore Fort Casey and its surrounding military infrastructure. Numerous state parks on the island provide residents and visitors with many leisure and exploration opportunities.

Across Puget Sound is Whidbey Island, the largest island in Puget Sound and claims to be the second longest island in the US at 55 miles. The island is located 30 miles north of Seattle and is accessible by ferry or car. The north end of the island is home to Naval Air Station Whidbey Island. This air station is one of the largest in the Navy and employs almost 10,000 military and civilian personnel. The island has a lot to offer, from hikes on Ebey’s Landing to the restaurants in Oak Harbor. There are many permanent residents who call Whidbey Island home, as well as vacationers who take advantage of the location for brief periods throughout the year.

Whidbey Island

As the late 19th century saw increased shipping traffic in the Puget Sound, the need for navigational aids increased. As a result, the lighthouse was built in 1906, a few years after Congress appropriated money for its construction. Initially, the station had a windmill that was used to pump water from a well but it was demolished in 1934. The original lens, which rotated every ten seconds and was operated by a clockwork mechanism, was replaced in 1927 by the Fresnel lens. This lens was manufactured in 1852. Although electricity arrived at the lighthouse in 1927, the light (and fog horn) wasn't automated until 1979. The Coast Guard had plans to demolish the lighthouse in the 1960s and replace it with a new light, but the community rejected this idea, thereby saving the historic lighthouse. Ownership of the entire property was transferred to the city in 2001 for the purpose of creating the park.

On the water side is the Mukilteo Lighthouse. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Mukilteo Lighthouse is historically significant for its past and ongoing role as an active navigational aid. It has guided ships into the Puget Sound, on east side of Whidbey Island, since it was built in 1906. It is the centerpiece of Lighthouse Park, which features a beach, shelters, and children's play areas. Owned by the city, the Mukilteo Historical Society operates the lighthouse, offering tours and interpretive exhibits exploring the history of the station. The light itself is visible 10 miles away and is illuminated by a fourth-order Fresnel lens. Other buildings at the site include the engine house, two former keeper's dwellings, the oil house, and a garage. The structures are all well preserved. The Coast Guard operates the light and fog horn, which is in the lighthouse building.

Mukilteo Lighthouse

In 1918, the residents of the area established the port of Everett. Positioned at the mouth of the Snohomish River, which meets the Puget Sound, this location was deemed advantageous for economic growth and opportunities for the community. Over the years, the Port has served as a hub for marine-related services and has offered extensive public access to the waterfront, contributing to the area's prosperity and development. The Navy acquired a second 52-acre site in Marysville for community support facilities. The Smokey Point Family Support Complex was dedicated on August 25, 1995, marking the completion of the transition of tenant commands from Naval Station Puget Sound to Everett.

The Everett Port and Naval Station are adjacent to one another, located on the Puget Sound, just west of Downtown Everett. Being located on the Puget Sound allows for ships to load and unload products for shipment to and from Asian countries. Access to the Pacific Ocean fosters a vital economic hub, with the Everett Port serving as a gateway for trade with Asian countries. Additionally, the port serves as a great economic booster for the city as it brings jobs, a tax base, and business and tourism to the community and region. The port is nestled between the pristine waters of Puget Sound and the majestic mountain peaks of the Cascades. Its strategic location provides easy access to explore the diverse landscapes of the Pacific Northwest, including Vancouver, Canada, just under 100 miles to the north, and the San Juan Islands and Olympic Peninsula, reachable by a short ferry ride. The region boasts breathtaking scenery, lush forests, and abundant wildlife, offering countless opportunities for outdoor enthusiasts. Naval Station Everett sits approximately 29 miles north of Seattle. In 1983, Everett was chosen as the Navy's Strategic Homeport Initiative location after being selected from 13 ports. This decision was influenced by U.S. Senator Henry M. Jackson and supported by the local community. Construction of the naval facility began in November 1987, and by April 1994, it achieved Initial Operating Capability with the arrival of the first homeported ships later that year.

Port of Everett and Everett Naval Station

The Port Gardner Peninsula, bounded by the Snohomish River to the east and north and Port Gardner Bay to the west, has been inhabited for over 10,000 years. Hibulb, the primary village of the Snohomish Tribe, was located at the northwest point of the peninsula due to its abundant food sources and transportation access via the Snohomish River and Port Gardner Bay. In 1792, George Vancouver claimed the area for England, naming the bay Port Gardner. Despite initial contact, the region remained relatively quiet until traders from the Hudson's Bay Company arrived in 1824. In 1853, Washington Territory was established, and the first non-Native settlers built a sawmill on Tulalip Bay. However, with the Treaty of 18 55 creating a reservation, they relinquished their operation to the tribes. Subsequently, white settlers from various Puget Sound locations began logging the peninsula's vast timber resources and establishing small camps. During the Treaty Wars, the Snohomish area remained peaceful, and plans for a military road in 1859 spurred further exploration of the Snohomish River valley. A boom began to hit Everett as individuals continued to buy land and grow the economy. However, in 1893, a national depression had lasting impacts on the area. As businesses began to shut down, so did the street lights, causing people to withdraw investments and move elsewhere. This trend began to turn around after the construction of a Naval Base during World War II, which helped revitalize the economy, and this paved the way for companies like Boeing to locate in Everett. Boeing has brought jobs and people into Everett, creating a lively environment where individuals can flourish in a bustling urban hub.

Everett was officially established in 1893, the same year the Great Northern Railroad was completed. Between 1900 and the start of World War II in 1941, Everett was recognized as the chief manufacturing city in Washington and had the nickname of the City of Smokestacks. During that time, there were 12 sawmills, 16 shake and shingle mills, two sash and door factories, two plywood plants, four pulp and paper mills, and two Foundries and the country's most significant salmon packing plant. All have since vanished. Today, Everett’s principal industries are the Naval shipyard and Boeing, and is home to Everett Community College.

City of Everett

Snohomish is a small town- located on a slope on the north bank of the Snohomish River. This river originates from the meeting point of the Snoqualmie and Skykomish rivers, near Monroe, and flows into Port Gardner Bay, part of Puget Sound. The town's name originates from the Lushootseed language, meaning "man" and "people." Around 14,000 years ago, Glacier Lake Snohomish, stretching from Everett to Snoqualmie Falls, drained, carving out the Snohomish, Snoqualmie, and Skykomish river valleys. The town rests on the Getchell Hill Plateau, surrounded by the Snohomish Estuary, Pilchuck outwash channel, and Snohomish River Valley. The valley, shaped by glacial movement, is flanked by steep hills. Human habitation traces back 8,000 years, but stable sea levels around 5,000 years ago facilitated salmon runs. Chief Pat Kanim, representing local tribes, signed the Treaty of Point Elliott in 1855, exchanging land for cash and a reservation.

We're currently in the Snohomish River Valley, a big farming area. Alfalfa, used for cattle feed, is a common crop here, baled into large rolls sometimes covered in white plastic to protect from rain. We'll also spot blueberry farms, some with mature plants and others new. Passing through Snohomish city, we'll see Harvey Airfield to the right, popular in summer for hot air ballooning and skydiving. Snohomish is also home to several artists and creative minds.

Snohomish River Valley

The Tulalip Tribes, successors of the Snohomish, Skykomish, and Snoqualmie bands from the 1855 Treaty of Point Elliott, preserve ancestral lands and resources to uphold their cultural identity and sovereignty. With reverence for nature and ancestral values, they safeguard their environment, especially amidst challenges like climate change threatening traditional practices, including their relationship with the sacred salmon. Honoring their heritage through conservation efforts, they ensure future generations can continue to live in harmony with the land, drawing wisdom from traditional teachings and blending them with modern science to sustain their way of life and the natural world they deeply cherish. Historically, the region's diverse ecosystems provided for their ancestors' needs, from abundant forests to rich salmon runs. However, settlement and industrialization have altered the landscape, jeopardizing traditional lifeways. Climate change exacerbates these challenges, endangering resources vital to Tulalip's survival. Through the Tulalip Climate Change Adaptation Plan, the tribe seeks to safeguard its people, culture, and livelihoods for future generations by addressing the impacts of climate change on treaty-reserved lands and waters.

We respectfully acknowledge the Native Peoples whose ancestral homelands we shall pass through today. As well, we acknowledge the diverse and vibrant Native communities who make their home along our route. As we pass through those Native Peoples' land today, we will honor their area as well as attempt to pronounce and translate the name of their people. As we travel from the shores of Puget Sound, along the Snohomish and Skykomish Rivers, through the Cascade Mountain foothills and along the Wenatchee River, we pass through the homelands of the Snohomish, Skykomish, Snoqualmie and Wenatchee Native American tribes. Indigenous people inhabited North America long before European governments sent explorers to claim the lands and their resources. Today, some 29 federally recognized Native American tribes live on reservations in Washington State.

Indigenous peoples

In recent years Monroe has seen considerable growth as a bedroom community for Seattle. These days Seattle home prices are quite high and housing prices here in Monroe are more affordable. Unfortunately, those folks who live here and commute to Seattle add to Seattle’s very congested streets and highways. Monroe, situated in southern Snohomish County, boasts a rich history dating back to Native American settlements. White settlement began in 1860, with Henry McClurg establishing Park Place in 1864. The town's growth surged in the late 1880s due to the arrival of the Great Northern Railroad. Renamed Monroe in 1890, the town flourished with a condensed milk plant and a state reformatory. Rapid expansion ensued in the early 1900s, driven by fertile farmland, timber, and railroad access. Today, with nearly 20,000 residents, Monroe remains a vibrant community, known for its historic downtown, the Evergreen State Fair, and its strategic location as a gateway to the Cascade Mountains. The city embraces diversity and inclusivity, offering a blend of rural living and urban conveniences, along with a commitment to environmental stewardship and community engagement.

We are nearing the city of Monroe. Monroe is an agricultural center for the surrounding area. If you visited Pike Place Market in Seattle and saw fresh flowers for sale there, chances are those flowers were grown here in the Snohomish River valley. We will pass the Evergreen State Fairgrounds. For those of you who live in the Puget Sound area, you have probably been to the fair here in Monroe at least once in your lifetime. As we pass through town watch for a tall concrete smokestack. This smokestack is all the remains of the Carnation Evaporated Milk Company factory that burned down in the 1940s. Rumor has it that it was too expensive to tear down the smokestack so they put a coat of paint on it and it became an icon for the city.

Monroe

The Skykomish River originates from the Cascade Mountains, joining the North Fork and South Fork near Index, WA. Spanning 29 miles, it forms part of the Snohomish River near Monroe, WA. Offering prime fishing for various salmon species and steelhead, it's a renowned destination for anglers and whitewater enthusiasts. The river is accessible from multiple boat launches, attracting visitors worldwide. Notably, it's free-flowing without dams and hosts Class III to Class IV+ rapids, including Boulder Drop. Historically, the Great Northern Railway ran along its course, crossing Stevens Pass. The river boasts five waterfalls, and its name, "Skykomish," means "upriver people '' in the Lushootseed language. The Skykomish River confronts significant challenges due to the invasion of knotweed and deforestation, leading to habitat degradation and compromised water quality. To address these threats, Forterra, in collaboration with partners, has implemented a comprehensive riparian restoration program aimed at controlling knotweed and restoring native plant communities. This initiative seeks to safeguard the river's precious habitat and recreational values by enhancing riparian buffers, improving water quality, and fostering long-term community stewardship.

We will be following the Skykomish for about the next 35 miles. In the summer, the river is very popular with fishermen, kayakers and rafters. The Skykomish is one of the largest rivers in the state of Washington that has not been dammed. Salmon travel from the Pacific Ocean up this river to spawn. We’ll see some of the 10,000 waterfalls in the state of Washington as we travel up this river. I’ll point out three or four of the more significant waterfalls as we travel along.

Skykomish River

Sultan, a charming town with a population of 5,000, is surrounded by beautiful waterways and majestic mountains. Established in the late 1800s and officially incorporated in 1905, Sultan has a rich history rooted in logging, mining, and agriculture. Today, the town is focused on responsible growth while celebrating its heritage. Startup, at the confluence of Wallace River and Skykomish, marks the Cascade slope's beginning. Originally named Wallace, it changed due to mail confusion. Logging was prominent, but farming grew. Today, it's a residential area with 1960s homes and a historic church-turned-gallery. Gold Bar, founded as a prospectors' camp in 1889, later became a construction site for the Great Northern Railway. Its history is marred by corruption and racism, notably against Chinese immigrants who helped build the railway. Today, it's a modern residential area.

The Empire Builder is nearing the town of Sultan. Other nearby small towns of Startup, and Gold Bar, were shaped by the Great Northern Railway, local mining, and timber industries. These towns flourished due to the convergence of these factors, each contributing to their growth and development. Each share it's own unique story and development attributing to Washington's history.

Sultan (Startup and Gold Bar)

Also known as US 2, the highway offers views of a diverse landscape. Starting from sea level in Seattle, it climbs over the Cascade Range, then passes through the arid Columbia Plateau. It traverses Idaho before reaching the forested beauty of western Montana and Glacier National Park. In 1926, the precursor to US 2 was designated Washington 6. Over time, sections were improved and paved, with various realignments. By 1950, the entire route in Washington was paved. Realignment continued, with the route reaching its current configuration by 1980, including bypassing Snohomish. These changes reflect the evolution of transportation infrastructure in the region over several decades.

Historic Highway 2 which parallels the Empire Builder's route most of the way between Everett, Washington, and Grand Forks, North Dakota. That’s a distance of over 1400 miles. Highway 2 is the northernmost transcontinental highway in the US. So when you look out the window and see a highway paralleling the train track, it’s most likely Highway 2.

Highway 2

The Skykomish River whitewater rafting experience is an adventure suited for physically fit individuals with previous rafting experience. Known as "The Sky," this challenging journey offers Class 3 and 4 rapids, including the iconic Boulder Drop. Expert guides provide safety instructions and paddle commands, ensuring a safe and enjoyable ride. Boulder Drop is renowned for its abundance of large boulders scattered throughout the rapid. Combined with a steep and abrupt descent, it presents challenges reminiscent of the Gauley River's intense chutes. Unlike many other rapids in Western Washington, which often feature smaller whitewater and gradual descents due to coastal river characteristics, Boulder Drop stands out with its unique terrain and intense river

Just ahead we will be crossing over the Skykomish River on the Boulder Drop Bridge. If you look upstream from the bridge you can see a treacherous stretch of the river called Boulder Drop. Those of you who are kayakers or rafters are familiar with the grading system of River Difficulty. Class 1 is the easiest and safest whitewater rapids and Class 6 is the most difficult and most dangerous. Depending on the season and the volume of water flowing in the river, Boulder Drop can be a class five rapids.

Boulder Drop Bridge

Nestled fifty miles east of Seattle in the Cascade Mountains, the town of Index sits on the North Fork of the Skykomish River. Named after the nearby Mount Index, resembling an index finger, this town holds a rich history largely unknown to outsiders. Initially inhabited by Native Americans, the area saw pioneer settlement after their migration prompted by Governor Isaac I. Stevens' Treaty of Point Elliott in 1855. In the 1880s, Amos and Persis Gunn established a hotel to accommodate miners drawn to the region's promise of gold and silver. The arrival of the Great Northern Railway in 1893 spurred Index's growth into a bustling community. Flourishing industries such as the sawmill and the Index Granite Company brought prosperity, attracting tourists who enjoyed its natural beauty and hospitality. However, challenges arose with the Great Depression in the 1930s, leading to business closures and a devastating forest fire in 1939. Despite efforts to endure, Index's vitality diminished over time. Today, it stands as a quiet community of around 160 residents.

We are approaching the historic Cascade Mountain town of Index where we will cross over the North Fork of the Skykomish River. Watch on the opposite side from the river for a 500 foot high granite cliff face called the Index Town Wall that is popular with rock climbers. The town of Index has been around almost as long as the state of Washington, itself. When the railroad came through in the 1890s, Index experienced a boom in extraction industries such as gold and silver mining for about 30 years. Granite quarrying and lumbering became profitable industries because their products could be transported by the railroad.  Not only did its many resources help build a roaring town in the early 20th century, but it also helped make many wonderful contributions to the future of the state. Many people surely thought that the town of Index would make a difference in Washingtonian culture for many years to come. However, as time passed, the services the town had offered were changed by society. This caused many of its residents to flee, leaving the town with a sparse population. As it is buried deep in the cascade forest away from the public eye, many people are unaware of the town’s existence. However, one thing is for certain. The town has not lost its beauty nor has it lost its noble history. As we go through town you will see some rafts and kayaks that can be launched here to head downstream through Boulder Drop Rapids.

Town of Index

Potholes in the middle of the falls create waterwheels, shooting water over 30 feet into the air at high levels. Public access to the falls is limited due to vandalism and private landowners' restrictions. Proposed dam construction by Snohomish County Public Utility District could divert significant river flow, impacting the falls.

We will cross over the Sunset Falls trestle soon, the largest of three major waterfalls on the South Fork of the Skykomish River. Sunset Falls plunges 104 vertical feet down a 275-foot granite chute. Nearby, Mount Index and Bridal Veil Falls grace the valley. Historically, fish couldn't pass these falls, but now, the Washington State Department of Fish and Wildlife aids migration with a fish trap and elevator from July to October. This allows salmon and steelhead access to over 100 miles of spawning grounds, providing sustenance for local wildlife.

Sunset Falls

On the eastbound route, as we start up the “hill” to Stevens Pass, the train is slowing down as the engines work hard to pull The Empire Builder 12 miles up the 2.2% ruling grade to the New Cascade Tunnel. The grade can be demonstrated by the train car you are traveling in. With each car being 85 ft. long, a 2.2% grade would mean that the front of the car is two feet higher than the back of the car. Ideally, most railroads are engineered with a ruling grade that does not exceed 1%. A 2% grade is a significant challenge for both passenger and freight trains. On the westbound route, the Empire Builder will begin picking up speed as the steep grade flattens out after coming down from Stevens Pass.

We are approaching the Cascade Mountain town of Skykomish, which came to life in the early 1890s as a result of construction of the Great Northern Railway. It has been a significant railroad town for over 100 years. Mining, timber, and tourist interests helped build the town as well. Skykomish, at nearly 1,000 ft. above sea level, was chosen as the site for a major rail yard because it is the last relatively flat area before the steep track up to Stevens Pass. As we pass through the town, you will see many of the buildings from the early-1900s and the old 18 94 Great Northern Depot on the side of the train opposite the town. Both the Great Northern Depot and the Skykomish Historic Commercial District are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. As you can see, the tracks run right through the center of this town of about 200 people, down from several thousand who lived here in the 1920s as the railroad constructed the New Cascade Tunnel. The cafes and taverns and two hotels are about all that is left now that modern-day railroad operations have eliminated the need for a stop here. The town has undergone a significant restoration in recent years. You will see new streets, sidewalks, and streetlights, as well as a new town park under construction. This historic town is fast becoming a tourist destination with its rich history and beautiful mountain location.

Skykomish

The Alpine Lakes Wilderness, spanning over 400,000 acres in Washington's central Cascades, showcases breathtaking landscapes nestled between Snoqualmie and Stevens Passes. Encompassing the Wenatchee Mountains and Stuart Range, including the majestic Mount Stuart and Enchantment Peaks, it boasts sawtooth ridges, glacier-carved valleys, and hundreds of pristine alpine lakes. Geological diversity is evident, with rock formations dating back millions of years, including ancient batholiths like those in the Stuart Range. The wilderness area boasts a diverse range of vegetation, from lush temperate rain-forests on the west to alpine meadows and larch stands on the east. It provides habitat for various wildlife, from black-tailed deer to mountain goats and a multitude of bird species. Despite its popularity, the region requires permits for access during peak seasons to manage visitor impact and preserve its fragile ecosystem. Renowned for its rock-climbing opportunities, particularly in the Enchantment Lakes area, and traversed by the Pacific Crest Trail, the Alpine Lakes Wilderness offers unparalleled outdoor experiences for adventurers seeking solace in nature's embrace.

We will be crossing the Foss River shortly. The river will be briefly visible on both sides of the train. The Foss River drains a number of beautiful alpine lakes in the rugged Alpine Lakes Wilderness. As we cross over the bridge, look up the Foss River for a quick view of some of the mountains in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. The Alpine Lakes Wilderness contains nearly 700 small alpine lakes. Although there are no roads in this wilderness area, there are over 600 miles of trails, some more than 8,000 feet tall, that attract 150,000 hikers and backpackers each year and make the Alpine Lakes one of the nation’s most visited wilderness areas.

Foss River/ Alpine Wilderness

The dominant species of evergreen trees are Douglas fir, western hemlock, and western red cedar. This elevation is too low for pine trees to be the predominant species. The deciduous trees, those with leaves, are mostly red alder, vine maple, cottonwood and big leaf maple. The forests we are seeing are mostly second and third growth. The first growth forest (often called “old growth”) was first logged in the late 1880s which is why we don’t see any giant trees but these trees that are about 100 years old. Some of the old growth trees in this valley were over eight feet in diameter.

Trees

The Great Northern was planning on a tunnel but James J. Hill did not want to wait, thus the switchbacks. In 1900, the Great Northern completed the 2.5 mile-long Cascade Tunnel. It was a vast improvement, but the trip across the mountains was still treacherous during the winter months. The biggest hazards were the frequent avalanches sweeping down the mountainside. The New Cascade Tunnel is the third approach to crossing the pass and the one the Empire Builder uses today. Trains climb to an elevation of just under 2,900 feet. This tunnel dramatically reduced the climb and reduced the problems caused by snow and eliminated the miles of snow sheds on the second line that were expensive and difficult to maintain.

There have been three engineering approaches used by the Great Northern Railway to cross the Cascade Mountains: From 1892 to 1900, there were a series of switchbacks, much like the zigzags of a steep hiking trail, that went over the pass at the 4,060 ft. summit. Train length and weight were severely limited and it took hours even in the best of weather to cross over the pass. In the winter it was often impossible. How would you liked to have worked as one of the railroad’s winter employees shoveling deep snow by hand? When this original line was built, speed of construction took precedence over the quality of line because of the Great Northern’s need to generate traffic and income quickly.

 Stevens Pass: Three Railroad Routes Across the Pass 

The construction of the new Cascade Tunnel stemmed from the tragic Wellington Disaster of 1910. The previous Cascade Tunnel suffered from poor ventilation, exposing passengers and crew to thick smoke from coal-fueled steam engines. To address this issue, electric locomotives were proposed, and the construction of a hydroelectric plant commenced in 1907. Completed in 1909, the Tumwater Dam on the Wenatchee River near Leavenworth supplied power to trolley lines within the tunnel, facilitating both freight and passenger transit. However, advancements in diesel locomotives and ventilation systems rendered the electric train system obsolete. This prompted the decommissioning of the power plant in 1956.

If we are headed eastbound, we will soon enter the New Cascade Tunnel. If you just exited the tunnel traveling westbound, here is some history of the tunnel. During our nearly 15-minute passage, the track climbs over 600 vertical feet to a maximum elevation of just under 2,900 feet above sea level. This tunnel is the longest in the United States at 7.8 miles. It is 16 feet wide, over 21 feet high, and completely lined with concrete. The New Cascade Tunnel opened in 1929 after 3 years of construction. 1,800 men worked from both ends toward the middle and from the middle toward both ends. A vertical shaft was blasted from the surface down to grade level in the middle of the tunnel route. The cost to build the tunnel was $25 million in 1920 dollars.

New Cascade Tunnel

At the eastern portal of the tunnel are two 800-horsepower electric fans forcing fresh air into the tunnel during and after the passage of each train. It takes about half an hour to ventilate the tunnel, which limits the number of trains that can use it each day to 28 trains.

Cascade Tunnel East Portal 

We will soon be crossing the over 500-foot-long Gaynor Trestle. Look on both sides of the train for a dramatic view of Nason Creek flowing in a deep gorge. The trestle and tunnel were constructed in 1949 to straighten the track and ease the climb of trains up the eastern slope of the Cascade Mountains.

Gaynor Trestle

In 2012, the Western Rivers Conservancy secured a 648-acre tract above Nason Creek, a vital cold-water tributary of Washington's Wenatchee River, safeguarding endangered bull trout and improving habitat connectivity for gray wolves and grizzly bears. Transferring the land to the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest ensures permanent protection while removing the logging threat minimizes sediment displacement risks into the stream, enhancing spawning habitat for bull trout and benefiting imperiled fish species like Chinook, sockeye, and steelhead. The purchase also preserves forest habitat for rare species, secures a cold water source for the Wenatchee, and offers potential for new trail routes into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Overall, this shows how vital Nason Creek and other surrounding watersheds are to the wildlife in this area.

The Empire Builder follows Nason Creek for about ten miles. Nason Creek is part of the Columbia River watershed, and it flows into the Wenatchee River, then joins the Columbia River, and eventually flows westward to the Pacific Ocean.The Columbia River drainage area is the size of France. It extends into British Columbia and includes extensive portions of the states of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, and even a few acres of Nevada and Utah.

Nason Creek

In Eastern Washington, the Cascade Range significantly shapes the climate, creating distinct weather patterns. Shielding the region from rain, the Cascades accumulate substantial snowfall, fostering a haven for winter sports enthusiasts. Cities like Wenatchee, Ellensburg, and the Tri-Cities bask in abundant sunshine, with up to 300 sunny days annually due to the rain shadow effect. Annual rainfall is minimal compared to Western Washington, ranging from 7 to 9 inches in central areas and increasing slightly toward Spokane, averaging 15 to 30 inches yearly. The region experiences stark temperature contrasts, with scorching summers reaching the upper 80's to mid-90's Fahrenheit and chilly winters dipping to below freezing. Geographically, Central Washington transitions from almost plains-like terrain to rolling hills towards the east, nourished by rich volcanic soil conducive to agriculture. Over 300 crops thrive here, supported by the Columbia Gorge's breathtaking landscape and the hydroelectric dams along the Columbia River, providing renewable energy and water resources for businesses and farms across the state.

Have you noticed since exiting the tunnel that we see less vegetation and fewer trees? Notice the Ponderosa pines here that we did not see on the western slopes of the Cascades - yellow to orange-red bark in broad plates with black crevices. Since we left Puget Sound, we have been traveling east from a marine climate toward a true desert climate. This change takes place in a straight-line distance of about 100 miles. The Greater Seattle Metropolitan area averages about 40 inches of precipitation per year. But here on the eastern side of the Cascade Mountains, the average is a mere eight inches or less.

Arid Climate

Originally a haven for Native American tribes, Leavenworth transitioned from a bustling logging town to a near ghost town after the railroad diverted its route. In the 1960s, town leaders embarked on a bold endeavor to revitalize Leavenworth by transforming it into a Bavarian-style village. This vision included downtown renovations and the introduction of festivals like the Autumn Leaf Festival and the Christmas Lighting Festivals. The strategy proved immensely successful, turning Leavenworth into a top tourist destination in the Pacific Northwest, attracting over a million visitors annually. Today, visitors can immerse themselves in the town's rich history by exploring the Greater Leavenworth Museum during their visit.

Known as the "Bavarian Village", Leavenworth holds a unique distinction. The town reinvented itself from a declining logging town to a Bavarian-style tourist destination.In the 1960s, the town of Leavenworth’s business leaders decided to “go Bavarian” and adopted a southern German theme. The idea was such a success that in 1978, the city council required a Bavarian theme for all new construction as a condition to receive a building permit. By the mid-1980s, a million tourists a year visited this faux-Bavarian village surrounded by 9,000 foot peaks. Visitors descend upon the town for Oktoberfest and the Christmas season, many arriving on special Christmas trains from the Seattle area. Today, it's famous for its Oktoberfest and Christmas lighting festival.

Leavenworth

Washington is known for its apples, pears, cranberries, and wine grapes, with wine production booming since the late 1980s. Dairy and poultry are significant in the northern Puget Sound Lowland. Cattle and sheep graze in the eastern forests and grasslands. Forests cover most of the state's land, supporting timber industries, wildlife, and recreation. Commercial fisheries, focusing on salmon, halibut, cod, and herring, are vital, supplemented by aquaculture. Washington’s key natural resource is water, harnessed through dams on the Columbia River for irrigation, power, flood control, and more. These dams contribute one-third of US hydroelectricity. The orchards between Leavenworth and Wenatchee are almost exclusively planted to pear production, with a small population of cherries. Washington State is the number one producer of pears, sweet cherries, Concord grapes and blueberries in the United States. It ranks second in apricots, nectarines, plums and potatoes. Washington produces more than 60 percent of the nation’s apple crop. The growing and harvesting employs tens of thousand seasonal workers and contributes more than 2 billion dollars to the state’s economy. We are also entering Washington’s principal wine producing region. The dry, sunny climate east of the Cascades is well suited to growing choice wine grapes. The State’s more than 1,000 wineries produce more than 17 million cases of wine each year, second only to California. Interestingly, Washington's agricultural abundance can be attributed in part to the "accidental" irrigation caused by the Great Missoula Floods at the end of the last ice age. These floods left behind a fertile landscape that is ideal for farming and orchards.

The orchards you see along our route are some of the most productive in the entire US. Three important ingredients come together in this area to make that happen. The first ingredient is good soil. The second ingredient is lots of sun. Both of those ingredients have been here since the first settlers arrived. What was missing was the third key ingredient – water. Irrigation is critical to the orchards and the Wenatchee River flowing through this area is the source for that water for irrigation.

Agriculture, orchards, wine

The Wenatchee Valley's "Fruit Bowl of the Nation" nickname isn't just about apples. The region's fruit industry also extends to peaches, pears, cherries, and apricots. These crops are celebrated throughout the year with festivals like the Wenatchee Cherry Festival and the Leavenworth Pear Festival. The Wenatchee Valley's agricultural richness beckons with its array of small farms and roadside stands, offering a delightful variety of fresh produce.  Since 1884, when the first commercial apple orchard was planted, the county's orchards have flourished, with Chelan County leading the state in pear production and ranking high in apple and cherry cultivation. However, challenges such as shifting market dynamics and international competition have impacted apple growers, leading to diversification efforts, including the rise of agro-tourism and the cultivation of wine grapes.  Despite a decline in farmland acreage over the past decades, the region's agricultural spirit endures, reflected in its small-scale farming operations and the scenic beauty of its rural landscape.

Along this agricultural valley, notice the large concrete warehouses that are used to store fruit. Once filled with fresh fruit, these cold storage facilities are sealed and flushed with nitrogen. This reduces the oxygen level to a very low 2%. Stable storage at the specified low oxygen level and cold temperature keeps the fruit fresher longer. You may also notice propeller-like fans in the orchards. They are used in the early spring to stir up the air to combat frost that might kill the flowering fruit buds. Orchard fans are easier to use and environmentally cleaner than the old method of burning smudge pots.

Cold Storage, Bins, and Fans

A number of large hydroelectric projects have been built on the Columbia and Snake Rivers in Eastern Washington. The most well-known is Grand Coulee Dam, less than 100 miles from Wenatchee. These projects supply clean electric power to the Western US and also assist in irrigation, providing millions of gallons of water each year to areas that otherwise would not support agriculture. In total, Washington state hosts nine federally owned and operated hydropower dams along the mainstream Columbia and lower Snake rivers. There are additional dams on tributaries like the Yakima River, upper Snake River, and other Columbia River feeders that also contribute to the power of surrounding towns and cities.

You may see a small dam that channels water from the Wenatchee River into irrigation canals. This valley is very dry and the fruit trees here depend entirely upon irrigation from the river. Hydroelectric power is also one of Washington State’s most significant exports. From the Empire Builder, east of Wenatchee, we can see Rock Island Dam, the first dam to span the Columbia River. Construction began in 1930, and the first powerhouse came online in 1933. The dam will be on the train’s right about 15 minutes after we leave Wenatchee. At night, the dam is attractively lit.

Irrigation and Hydropower

Over the years, the city diversified its economy, embracing industries such as manufacturing, farming, lumber, and hydroelectric power generation. Today, Wenatchee remains a vibrant hub in Central Washington, with a diverse economy and a growing population drawn to its rich agricultural heritage and economic opportunities. The annual Washington State Apple Blossom Festival draws visitors from around the world to celebrate the region's rich agricultural heritage. The festival, which started in 1920, has grown into a major event featuring a grand parade, a carnival, arts and crafts, and more.

Wenatchee is located in the fertile valley of Central Washington at the meeting point of the Wenatchee and Columbia Rivers. Wenatchee stands as the second most populous city in the region and serves as the seat of Chelan County. Initially inhabited by indigenous Wenatchi people, the area saw the arrival of Euro-American settlers, who were drawn by its scenic beauty. The first non-indigenous settlers, including gold prospectors, Chinese miners, cattlemen, and missionaries, began arriving around 18 11. The establishment of the Great Northern Railway depot in 1892 marked a significant turning point, facilitating accessibility and sparking rapid development. The Wenatchee Development Company, in collaboration with the railway, surveyed and platted the town site, leading to substantial property sales and population growth. Wenatchee quickly earned renown as the "Apple Capital of the World" due to its ideal climate and fertile soil, leading to a boom in fruit production.

AMTRAK Empire Builder Train from Seattle to Wenatchee

Chumstick

Introduction

Images

Backstory and Context

Sources