Ellwood Devereux: Walking through Local Land Use (Tour) - Clio

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1. Del Sol Vernal Pools

Recommended Time: 10 minutesGo to the bus stop by Isla Vista Elementary School. Find the so-big-it-must-be-intentional rock that says: “Del Sol Vernal Pool Reserve.” Welcome to the beginning of a tour to one of the best places (maybe in the world?) – a place with a lot of different names. Some people will follow the rock’s lead and call it Del Sol Vernal Pool Reserve, but others may just call this whole area surrounding El Colegio Road “UCSB” or “Isla Vista.” To some of you, you may call this your bus stop. And to the Buckeye Butterfly, Pacific Treefrog, and Coyote Thistle, this is home. Maybe this is home to you, too. I definitely called it that when I lived here.Look around. What are some of the things you see? Is anything in the pool? Sometimes you can spot a frog if you have a quick eye. You likely can hear them (I hope!). What kinds of plants do you see? You can use iNaturalist or another plant identifying app if you want to know what it is for sure, besides “tall grass.” But then look further. What else is in this area? What kinds of buildings do you see? How big are they? Can you see the ocean? What kind of infrastructure (the physical and organizational structures that make life, as we generally live it, possible, such as roads and power poles) do you see? All of this, everything you are seeing, is part of Del Sol Vernal Pool’s ecosystem. An ecosystem is a complex and always-changing network, a community with aspects that are biotic (“living”) and abiotic (“non-living” chemical and physical components). Much of the flora and non-human fauna surrounding it need pools like this in order to survive, and their life cycles follow the pool’s seasons. Even though they are very important habitats, 90% of California’s vernal pools have been lost due to development and climate change. This is why their protection is so important!

2. Climate Change Plaque

Recommended Time: 10 minutesFrom Del Sol, walk towards Storke from El Colegio and walk into UCSB’s West Campus Family Student Housing following the path along the playground fence. Continue walking through the parking lot to the road (passing the apartment complex on your right) which leads down a hill toward the open space. After a couple minutes you will reach the open space and find a large sign that says “Climate Change” attached to a wooden fence post. This place was the beginning of many adventures for me when I lived on campus, and maybe it has been for you, too. While the road that we are going to walk along to reach the beach was created in service of oil companies in Ellwood Devereux, today pedestrians, runners, bikers, CCBER workers, and other animals all make use of this pathway. Have you ever walked by here before? This is one of my most favorite places and it has changed a lot over the past several years. Not long ago it was occupied by a golf course and has been transformed by CCBER into the restoration site you see today. Land is constantly changing – that is all that land really does or can do – with different forces acting upon it and shaping the landscape and experiences of the flora and fauna that call it home. You can imagine, then, that Ellwood Devereux looked very different a few hundred years ago.

3. Coal Oil Point Pond Trail

Recommended Time: 20 minutesLet's walk uphill along the road and away from the Climate Change sign. Make sure to pay attention to where you walk. Even though this is a road, you never know who or what you might bump into. On one walk, I bumped into a professor and later a snake (I will not tell you which one startled me more)! On the left, look for wooden fencing that has an opening to it and a sign that says: “Coal Oil Pond Trail.” That is where we are going to stop. When you see the name “Coal Oil Point,” you may have a similar thought as I did when I first saw it: what do fossil fuels have to do with this place? “Coal oil” is actually a specific kind of oil -- shale oil if we want to get specific. There is a lot of oil off of the coast of Ellwood Devereux The Santa Barbara Channel, which is what we call the ocean area between mainland of California (from Point Conception to Point Mugu) and the Channel Islands, has many oil seeps within the sea floor. The Channel is also the home to one of the most biologically productive ecosystems on the planet. Because of how it is situated, between the Channel Islands to the north and the mainland to the south, this is known as a transition zone, meaning that it has a lot of species diversity and biomass (which refers to the total weight of organisms)! The latter is, in part, where the oil comes from. The dead organic material goes through a chemical process over time to become oil and then leaks (or seeps) out of cracks in the ocean. The Coal Oil Point seep field is part of this bigger network, and because of its location and productivity, it is one of the most studied oil seeps in the world.But these reasons are, in part, why this part of the California coast has also been one of the most exploited. Wander up the trail for about fifteen minutes (as long as you follow the trail, you will not get lost).

4. Eucalyptus Grove

Recommended Time: 10 minutes When you have finished up on the Coal Oil Point Pond Trail, walk back down to the road and turn left to continue uphill. Slow your pace and look around. On your right, you should be able to see the Santa Ynez Mountains. Depending on the season, the light hits them perfectly the hour or so before sunset. They glow pink and it almost looks as if they are shimmering. How many houses do you see out there between you and the mountains? How many people do you think live out there? How many of them do you think have walked the trail you are walking on? Keep walking on the path. When you are at the top of the hill, look to the left. There you should see a huge, white, domed building. This is oil infrastructure: a storage tank for crude oil. It shouldn’t surprise you at this point to know that the road you just walked up was an oil company access road built to service the tanks you are standing next to. While you walk on these trails keep your eyes open for signage that warns you about nearby pipelines or infrastructure.As the road winds to the left you should see some bigger trees up ahead. Walk to them. They are Eucalyptus (and they are very friendly and fragrant)! These trees were planted over a century ago, and they were part of a bigger movement to introduce non-local plants to this environment. There were a few reasons to do so, and you can read more about them in the next section.

Recommended Time: 30 minutes Consider wearing hiking sandals and clothes that you do not mind getting dirty or wet! Also, always look up tidal conditions before going to the beach.There are a few ways that you can get to Sands Beach from Ellwood Mesa. Some of these paths can be unstable or can completely disappear, depending on recent weather. The three main paths from Ellwood Mesa are:Past the last tour stop at the Eucalyptus Grove. When you follow the gravel road and head towards the ocean and Isla Vista, you should see a path down to the beach.At the brick gate. Keep walking on the bluff trail, away from Isla Vista. You will see ruins of a brick gate before the Eucalyptus Overlook stop. Walk down the path – it is still steep – but this is the safest way down from the bluff.After the Eucalyptus Overlook. If you follow the path that you took to the Eucalyptus Overlook rather than going toward mountains, there has been a path down to Sands Beach in recent months. If you wanted to visit Sands Beach separate from the longer tour, or you are not wearing the right equipment to visit the site, you could approach it from Camino Majorca and Del Playa and head west on the beach.Once you get to the beach, take off your shoes (unless you are very tender-footed). As you walk, look out for tar (which comes from the oil seeps we just talked about). How does the sand feel? Walk towards the water. How does the sand change in texture the more wet it gets? Look at the shells. The further you walk towards the water, does the debris (e.g. rocks and shells) change in shape or size? Pick up two or three and compare them. Have you gone surfing here before? Local surfers have told me that it is best in the winter and spring, but I never tried. If you see some kelp, pick it up. What does it feel like? The coast of California has one of the best kelp forests in the world, so when you inevitably trip on some, please know that you are tripping on the coast’s excellence.This is the mouth of the Devereux Slough. You can look for where the slough, from the mainland, connects to the ocean.

6. Eucalyptus Overlook

Recommended Time: 15 minutes Walk back up to Ellwood Mesa and walk along the coastal bluffs, away from Isla Vista. Pay attention to how the coastline around you changes as you walk. Stormy weather can drastically change its shape and form. For your safety, find an obviously well-grounded spot and look down at the beach. What do the sides of the bluffs look like? Does it seem like some of the geology that made up the top of the bluff shifted? What kinds of plants do you see down there?Get ready to see more eucalyptus! When you approach this new grove, walk into it and towards the water. I am not leading you astray or to your doom, do not worry. Look at the roots of the trees. How are they shaped? How much of them can you see? The roots of these trees can spread across over 100 feet, and they are not shy. You can likely see (or nearly be tripped by) many of them. Walk carefully! I have gotten many bruises from these trees. Eucalyptus roots suck up as much water as they can, and when they do, they can dehydrate other plants. Do you see any other plants among the eucalyptus? If you do, they are probably small, or you may have mistaken a smaller sprout of Eucalyptus as a separate plant. Look for where it is rooted because that is its home. As you walk toward the water, you will see an opening. Go towards it and step onto this overlook. This is a beautiful spot. I have seen so many graduation and engagement sessions – even a full wedding – right here. Typically this is at “golden hour,” the hour or so before sunset. Maybe you timed this tour to see it at sunset. Either way, look out in the water. What do you see? When I walk out here, I always see a lot of history. When you have taken the proper number of selfies and panoramas, read the next section.

7. Ellwood Main Butterfly Grove

Recommended Time: 15 minutesAfter making your way away from the overlook, follow the path towards the mountains. While you are walking, consider what you are seeing to your right and your left. Are the grasses yellow or green? What do they smell like? What kinds of rocks do you see? Are they little or big?Stop when you hit a grove of trees. By this point, you should likely be able to tell that they are Eucalyptus. Watch your step because you already know how tricky their root systems are. Allow yourself to get a little lost in the grove for a while. If you are taking this tour with someone, walk in separate directions. Do not listen to music. Just let your brain wander where it wants as your body wanders as it wants.What are you thinking about? Why do you think you are thinking about those things? While your ideas flutter, look up. Do you see anything else fluttering? Depending on the time of year (and your level of luck), you may see some Monarch Butterflies! These trees were also, you likely guessed it, planted by Ellwood Cooper, and they have stayed because they are an overwintering site for the butterflies. Monarchs migrate to California’s coast from all over North America. They arrive at Ellwood Mesa in mid-September and create seasonal colonies. They stay until about mid-February and fly inland. The Monarchs return every five generations.

8. Sperling Plaque

Recommended Time: 10 minutesContinue walking back towards Isla Vista along the Eucalyptus and beside the Goleta neighborhood that runs right next to it. While you walk, what do you notice? Are there any changes in the landscape that you see? What do the fences look like? Are they all the same or are they different? What do you think it would be like to live in the neighborhood so close to Ellwood Devereux – maybe you already do!After a few minutes, you should bump into a big plaque made out of rough stones. Touch the stones. What do they feel like? If you have taken a geography class or really like rocks, what type of stone are they made of? What does the plaque note? What does it remember? Why do you think the plaque was placed here and why? Why have a plaque at all? Let’s look closer at the plaque. On its top, there is a textured map of Ellwood Mesa. How accurate does it look? Why do you think it was included? After a few minutes of analyzing the top of the plaque, look at its sides. One of the sides list the legislators who made the work possible. Look at the names. Do any look familiar? What about their jobs – are you surprised by the kinds of politicians who did this work? Why or why not?The other side of the plaque lists major donors, organized by different levels named after local fauna. The fight to protect Ellwood Mesa took decades, but most of the litigation and fundraising efforts occurred between 1993 and 2005. Read the next section to learn more about this process.

9. The Former Ocean Meadows at NCOS

Recommended Time: 10 minutesKeep walking towards Isla Vista and look out towards the ocean. What do you see? What does the landscape look like? Do you see any non-flora or non-fauna (e.g., environmental management equipment, garden stakes and hoses, rope, etc.)? How far can you look out? If it is a really clear day and you have good eyesight, you can see the ocean from this point. How has this landscape changed? What if I told you that a decade ago, this was a fully functional nine-hole golf course? I will tell you all about it in the next section.

This Tour is a Hiking Trail.

Ellwood Devereux: Walking through Local Land Use

Created by Nicky Rehnberg on February 12th 2023, 6:55:26 pm.

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Description

The land now known as Ellwood Mesa and Devereux Slough (what we will call Ellwood Devereux on this tour) has over 13,000 years of human history on it. It has gone by many names during that time, such as Anisq’oyo and Kuwa’a, Rancho Dos Pueblos, the Campbell Ranch, Devereux Ranch School, Marine Corps Air Station Santa Barbara, and now the University of California, Santa Barbara. And it may also be your home.Ellwood Devereux is a “nature” area, a public open space where at any given point there can be big projects regarding water conservation or the preservation of flora and fauna (plants and animals), and all of this happening where people hike and surf. This tour seeks to help you, UCSB student, to connect to the nature surrounding where you study (and maybe where you live) through Ellwood Devereux’s history. The idea of “home” is already complicated (e.g. is it where you sleep at night, where your favorite animals are, or where your heart is, maybe?). It becomes even more complex in a place with many natural resources (e.g. the ocean, the plants and animals living in it, the land, the plants and animals living on it, and the oil underneath both). Ellwood Devereux is not only home to you, potentially, but it is also home to a whole ecosystem! And, when we apply this idea of “home” to land management, how the environment has been used for over thousands of years, it can become even more complicated. In learning the natural history of Ellwood Devereux, this tour hopes that you use the information to get to know and love the land and your fellow creatures on it.

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